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Prusa mini - getting started
#21
(10-18-2020, 09:35 PM)daveefordays Wrote: Wow that looks really awesome!

I guess that shows the prusa advantage, you pay a significant premium but when it shows up it just works Big Grin

Thanks! Yes but 100% worth it for me to just get everything to work out of the box! Big Grin 


(10-19-2020, 12:40 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Yeah, using the PrusaSlicer profiles for PLA and PETG gives you out-of-the-box results that just work without having to mess about with any settings Cool

I bet you sat and watched every layer of those prints being put down from start to finish Big Grin 

If you've got the SainSmart TPU you shouldn't have too many problems printing with it, if any. All of the initial hair pulling I had with printing TPU was because I cheaped out on an unknown brand of TPU. If you stick with tried and tested brands you shouldn't really have any issues. Buy cheap, buy twice as they say.

Haha, you know me! Wink  I think I ran the printer for 6 hours yesterday and I am so amazed by how cool it is, also it is so quiet. I thought that it would be an issue living in an apartment but I can almost not hear it in the next room.
Yes I have the Sainsmart TPU and hopefully it will print fine as well! 

Regarding the filament the one from Prusa is so nice, I only have Sainsmart to compare to and both seems like high quality filament but he one from Prusa you can see that it is really premium stuff.
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#22
The only filament I have from Prusa is the 1kg spool of silver PLA that originally came with my printer, but that was made by another company that Prusa used to outsource the filament manufacturing to before they had the equipment and facilities in-house to manufacture their own filament, so what i have isn't Prusament. It's reasonable quality but I find that the Sunlu PLA+ that I've adopted prints much better. I'm so impressed with the Sunlu filament that I now have 11 spools in different colours Big Grin Other than TPU, I also have a spool of black Sunlu PETG which prints really nicely too.

I want to print some mods for my i3, but because I have OCD the prints need to be the exact same shade of orange as the other printer parts. So I will likely purchase a spool of orange Prusament PETG so I know it's a 100% exact colour match Smile You know you can always count on the Prusa filament to be top quality but buying direct from Czechia isn't as convenient and incurs shipping fees compared to free next day delivery from Amazon.

If I ever had to replace my 3D printer I would likely just end up buying another Prusa even with the linear bearing issues I've had, but that was down to inadequate / incorrect lubrication.
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#23
I changed filament to Sainsmart PLA and tested to print a budda figure with no supports and I think it came out pretty good, just a few strings I have to clean up. I had problems in the beginning because the first layer was too low, it was squished on the bed but I did change to the smooth sheet so I just canceled the print, did a manual bed calibration to adjust the Z axis and then printed again. I thought that the short calibration by the MINDA probe before each print would auto adjust when changing sheets? Is something wrong with my printer or do I have to "live" with manual calibration everytime I change sheets?

[Image: YKyzmXCl.jpg]
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#24
It looks like that came out really well Smile 

When you say changing sheets, do you have both a textured powder coated sheet and smooth PEI sheet?

I have both of those sheet types, so if you have the same you need to do a Z-axis calibration for each type of sheet, but the calibration is then stored in the printer against the sheet type. On the Prusa i3 MK3S you can change the sheet type you are using before you start printing and the calibration settings for that sheet are then used. I would assume the Prusa Mini has the same feature. Check in the Hardware setup menu for multiple sheet types.

The MINDA / PINDA sensor isn't accurate enough to do all the work by itself. If it was you wouldn't even need to do a Z-axis calibration at all. The sensor works by using a position relative to the original Z-Axis calibration value, so you still need the correct calibrated offset value in order for the MINDA / PINDA sensor to do its job properly.

Also, just a reminder. When you start printing TPU, don't print TPU directly onto the smooth PEI sheet otherwise you will ruin the PEI coating.
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#25
(10-20-2020, 08:34 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: It looks like that came out really well Smile 

When you say changing sheets, do you have both a textured powder coated sheet and smooth PEI sheet?

I have both of those sheet types, so if you have the same you need to do a Z-axis calibration for each type of sheet, but the calibration is then stored in the printer against the sheet type. On the Prusa i3 MK3S you can change the sheet type you are using before you start printing and the calibration settings for that sheet are then used. I would assume the Prusa Mini has the same feature. Check in the Hardware setup menu for multiple sheet types.

The MINDA / PINDA sensor isn't accurate enough to do all the work by itself. If it was you wouldn't even need to do a Z-axis calibration at all. The sensor works by using a position relative to the original Z-Axis calibration value, so you still need the correct calibrated offset value in order for the MINDA / PINDA sensor to do its job properly.

Also, just a reminder. When you start printing TPU, don't print TPU directly onto the smooth PEI sheet otherwise you will ruin the PEI coating.
Yea exactly, I use the textured sheet for PETG+TPU and the smooth for PLA

Thanks for clarifying how the MINDA sensor works, I just assumed that I would not have to calibrate because everything have been such a smooth ride until now Big Grin
I can not find anything on stored calibration values in the manual, only that I have to adjust the live adjust Z when switching between different types of sheets. I will check in the menu of the printer tomorrow and see if I can find anything on this Smile
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#26
I can't seem to find any info on sheet steel profiles for the Prusa Mini, but the link below details that feature on the Prusa MK2/2.5/3. Have a look through your menus anyway, but maybe Prusa just haven't implemented that feature on the Mini. If not then I'll be surprised if there aren't plans to do so in the future.

https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/stee...files_1955

EDIT: I found a a sheet steel profile feature request for the Prusa Mini on GitHub at the link below that was raised back in February, but it's not implemented yet, so you are out of luck for the time being...

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmwar...issues/223

EDIT #2: It looks like the feature has actually already been implemented into the firmware source code and merged back into the master branch ready for the next firmware release. So once the next firmware drops you should then have the same feature Smile See details in the GitHub pull request at the link below... 

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmwar...y/pull/886
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#27
That would be very helpful, thanks for finding that! Smile
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#28
After a lot of successful prints I had my first issue. I was printing the elevons for my wing and I have problems getting the infill (yes infill) to stick to the bed. I print without top and bottom layers and the wings printed fine this way but the elevons created one big blob of PETG..

I understand that it is not normal to print without top and bottom layers and it is not the printers fault. How do I clean the nozzle? it is covered now and I tried to scrape it off but it seems really hard to clean.. do i just leave it as it is? it prints fine but I am afraid that the remaining plastic will get burnt..

[Image: spvNOhWl.jpg]
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#29
(10-28-2020, 01:16 PM)Andreas-sa Wrote: After a lot of successful prints I had my first issue. I was printing the elevons for my wing and I have problems getting the infill (yes infill) to stick to the bed. I print without top and bottom layers and the wings printed fine this way but the elevons created one big blob of PETG..

I understand that it is not normal to print without top and bottom layers and it is not the printers fault. How do I clean the nozzle? it is covered now and I tried to scrape it off but it seems really hard to clean.. do i just leave it as it is? it prints fine but I am afraid that the remaining plastic will get burnt..

[Image: spvNOhWl.jpg]


To clean the nozzle, get it to temperature and hit it with a tiny wire brush. Doesn't need to be perfect though, just get the bulk off.

For any adhesion issues, try again with glue stick. Maybe check that your slicer has put the infill at the location of the bottom layer though. If the infill doesn't get enough squish on the bed it will never stick.

Cheers,
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#30
Another suggestion is to try printing the PETG on the smooth PEI steel sheet. I had loads of problems getting PLA to stick to the textured powder coated sheet which has quite a slippery surface in comparison to the PEI sheet, so I print both PLA and PETG on the smooth PEI sheet and only use the textured powder coated sheet for TPU. If you have a particularly challenging print like the one you're doing then be sure to wipe over the PEI sheet with acetone to reactivate the surface of it for maximum adhesion prior to starting the print.
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